Pattern Manipulation

ダーツの基本操作 (前身頃) | Dart manipulation (Front bodice)


    A ・・・ 前後の差<>を移動する方法。
    B ・・・ BPを基点にA点が点(水平線上)にくる様に型紙を回転する方法。
    C ・・・ BPまで切込みを入れて斜めのWLが水平になる様にウエストでたたむ方法。


As you can see the basic front bodice pattern, its side line is slanted and waist line isn't flat.  It's because swell of breasts pull the side line toward front and lift the waist line up. Just pinch BP and pull it forward then you will understand what that means. Therefore the gap <> means the amount of a dart.
The pictuer (on the left) shows common darts in place. A, B and C show how to insert a dart and are taken side dart (1) as an example.

    A ・・・ Move the amount of the gap<>
    B ・・・ Make PB as an axis and turn the pattern untill A reaches the point  on the flat line.
    C ・・・ Cut into a dart you want and fold waist side until slanted waist line becomes flat.

At last, make the dart-end at the point distanced from BP. Now you can insert any darts you want!

デザインによるダーツ展開 | Dart development in design



The pattern on the left has a side dart using method A. These pictures show how the dart works in design. Princess line (sort of a armhole dart), gather or tack, these can be made by folding the dart.

Method A is simple and easiest. No matter where you want to insert a dart, get your basic bodice pattern with a side dart ready when you start drafting (just like the picture on the left). At this moment, forget about waist darts :)