Jan 26, 2013

一枚仕立て / Working with Double Faced Fabric


This is the cashmere blend wool fabric I bought the other day. It's double-faced as you can see the photo. I've chosen the beige side to be main and am working on a double-faced overcoat right now. I'm going to show you how to sew a seam to make the garment double faced. This is a quite tiring work but I'm excited and enjoy making because I feel satisfy when I see the finish work. Anyway double faced garments are so expensive but you will see that makes sense.

■ 接結糸 - Binder thread


Double faced fabric consists of two layers of cloth and the binder threads are holding them together. So you can open it by cutting the thread and the edges need to be opened when machine-stitching. The blue arrow shows the direction that the thread runs through. When you want to open the edge to this direction, pull out the thread. I found out this was faster. Cut the thread when opening to the other direction. (Click on images to enlarge)

■ 縫い方 - How to sew

  1. 縫い代1cm位で裁断します。
  2. 5mm内側にミシンをかけます。(後で抜き取るのでミシン目は大きく)
  3. 接結糸を切ってミシンの位置までしっかり剥がします。(片側のみ)
  4. 出来上がりから4mmに縫い代をに切り揃えます。
  5. 中表にし、剥がした一枚を省き縫い代を揃えてピンで留めます。
  6. 出来上がり線を縫います。
  7. 縫い終わった状態。
  8. 縫い代を片倒しにし、縫わずに省いていた方を手でまつっていきます。
  9. まつり終わった状態。
  10. 最初にかけたミシンの糸を抜き取ってをって出来上がり。

  1. Seam allowance is about 1cm at this moment.
  2. Machine-stitch. (Adjust stitch pitch in 4 to 5mm. The thread is taken out later) 
  3. Open the edge. (One side only)
  4. Cut off the extra seam allowance.
  5. Pin both side together. (Face to face)
  6. Machine-stitch the seamline.
  7. Just done 6. 
  8. Overlap the seam allowance and blind stitch.
  9. Just done 8.
  10. Take the machine thread out and then finished!

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  1. i wouldn't have thought of that. great idea and thanks for the tutorial!

  2. Thanks for the information. I love that the seam is finished when working with double cloth.

  3. This is brilliant. Thanks for the post.

  4. うわー 早くみたいな。

  5. Thank you for a great tutorial. I never knew double-faced fabrics were held together with thread. Looking forward to the final piece too.

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