Apr 30, 2013

The Cotton Tweed Jacket


Hi hi there! It's been a while since my last post. In the meantime I haven't sewn any garments for myself. But here is a forgotten cotton tweed jacket I made last spring. Why now? I was gonna make a skirt so that I could put it on with the jacket but I could't make it. After all, I missed the chance to wear it. Now I have a white bubble skirt I made last summer and it just perfectly goes with the jacket! I used bias cut strips out of fabric for the fringe trim.
Speaking of tweed, the other day I bought Elegance ribbon tweed to make a jacket. It's quite expensive but super pretty. How could I resist? This one is also white x navy so I'm gonna have to make a navy skirt for these jackets.


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Mar 20, 2013

Ruffle Skirt Dress


It's getting warmer and warmer day by day. Seems like winter is over and spring has come! I kinda like the moment spring or autumn is coming. Fabric stores start to expose more summer stuff and display fresh new stuff. I see lots of bright colors and prints and that makes me realize I'm bored with woolly bulky winter fabric. Haven't you felt like that? Anyway for the lovely spring days, I made the six-tiered skirt dress with ponte knit (poly, rayon and so on). So I ended up hemming six times! Ha!  

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Feb 17, 2013

一枚仕立てのコート / Double Face Coat


I think you can imagine how much sewing this coat was tiring if you read my former post about how to finish seams and I always had bad stiff shoulders while I was working on it... The material is wool 70%, cashmere 30%, double-faced fabric. The coat is half-lined so it's easier to put on/off. I also made a yoke seamed wrap skirt with the left-over. This is self-drafted one-piece type of shawl collared pattern, which means the collar is set in the front bodice. The neckline looked fine when basting and fitting on but I should have added a dart at the SNP. Then the neckline would look more natural with gentle curve. Anyway I'm now free from the physical stress and don't want to make any double face garments anytime soon. But next winter, I will probably make something else because I have bought two more double faced fabrics.

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Feb 8, 2013

イスタンブールの休日 / A Little Break In Istanbul


My friend and I got out of Japan and took a short trip to Istanbul. We had three days and a half to spend there. Needless to say, the icons of Istanbul such as Topkapi Palece, Blue Mosque or Ayasofya, they are all amazing. Apart from the super famouse icons, I'd like to show you a little bit pretty places or stuff, and Turkish skin care goods. It was short time but we had a fantastic and exciting time over there including a rip-off we got at a kabab cafe:P


<←> Kucukayasofya Mosque (小アヤソフィア モスク)
<→> St. Antuan Church (聖アントニオ教会)

<←> Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (ミフリマ スルタン モスク)
<→> Tunel (トゥネル)

<←> Sirkeci Railway Station (シルケジ駅)
<→> Istiklal Street (イスティクラル通り)



HomeSpaというお店で買ったナチュラルソープ。いくつか行ったお店のなかでもここが一番香りの良い、というか好きな香りのソープが置いてあるお店でした。写真左上はGoat milk(ヤギのミルク)の石鹸で、これがたまらなく良い香り!ヤギっぽさはありません。甘い感じではなくスッキリした清々しい香りというか、表現できないので行ったら買ってみてください。オーナーはアメリカ人女性で彼女もこれが大好きだとか。


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Jan 26, 2013

一枚仕立て / Working with Double Faced Fabric


This is the cashmere blend wool fabric I bought the other day. It's double-faced as you can see the photo. I've chosen the beige side to be main and am working on a double-faced overcoat right now. I'm going to show you how to sew a seam to make the garment double faced. This is a quite tiring work but I'm excited and enjoy making because I feel satisfy when I see the finish work. Anyway double faced garments are so expensive but you will see that makes sense.

■ 接結糸 - Binder thread


Double faced fabric consists of two layers of cloth and the binder threads are holding them together. So you can open it by cutting the thread and the edges need to be opened when machine-stitching. The blue arrow shows the direction that the thread runs through. When you want to open the edge to this direction, pull out the thread. I found out this was faster. Cut the thread when opening to the other direction. (Click on images to enlarge)

■ 縫い方 - How to sew

  1. 縫い代1cm位で裁断します。
  2. 5mm内側にミシンをかけます。(後で抜き取るのでミシン目は大きく)
  3. 接結糸を切ってミシンの位置までしっかり剥がします。(片側のみ)
  4. 出来上がりから4mmに縫い代をに切り揃えます。
  5. 中表にし、剥がした一枚を省き縫い代を揃えてピンで留めます。
  6. 出来上がり線を縫います。
  7. 縫い終わった状態。
  8. 縫い代を片倒しにし、縫わずに省いていた方を手でまつっていきます。
  9. まつり終わった状態。
  10. 最初にかけたミシンの糸を抜き取ってをって出来上がり。

  1. Seam allowance is about 1cm at this moment.
  2. Machine-stitch. (Adjust stitch pitch in 4 to 5mm. The thread is taken out later) 
  3. Open the edge. (One side only)
  4. Cut off the extra seam allowance.
  5. Pin both side together. (Face to face)
  6. Machine-stitch the seamline.
  7. Just done 6. 
  8. Overlap the seam allowance and blind stitch.
  9. Just done 8.
  10. Take the machine thread out and then finished!

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Jan 20, 2013

リボンニットでバルーンスカート / Ribbon-Knit Bubble Skirt


Hello there! My very first work of this year is the bubble skirt. I think ribbon tweed fabric is well known but this is wool blended knit fabric with non-woven ribbon yarn and glitter yarn as you can see the photo above. These fabrics really look gorgeous because of the ribbon so I think the ribbon yarn could be used somehow as a braid trim.  It was kind of expensive so I modified my previous bubble skirt to save some more fabric for an another plan. This time, the skirt has 4 tucks each in front and back, the bottom line of the underlining is 4cm above from hemline. More importantly I had to add 2cm at waist! I'm neither pregnant nor ill. So you know why. I need to keep this size at least for my waist-belted-skirts, otherwise I will be in trouble!

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